Travel Journal Series: Amalfi Limoncello

As travelers journey down the fabled Amalfi Coast, their route takes them past rocky cliffs plunging into the sea and small boats lying in sandy coves like brightly colored fish.

Erosion has contorted the rocks into shapes resembling figures from mythology and hollowed out fairy grottoes where the air is turquoise and the water an icy blue.

In winter nativity scenes of moss and stone are created in the rocks. White villages dripping with flowers nestle in coves or climb like vines up the steep, terraced hills. Lemon trees abound, loaded with blossom or fruit — and netting in winter to protect the fruit. The road must have a thousand turns, each with a different view, on its dizzying 69-km (43-mi) journey from Sorrento to Salerno.

The town of Amalfi is romantically situated at the mouth of a deep gorge and has some good-quality hotels and restaurants. It’s also a convenient base for excursions to Capri and the Grotta dello Smeraldo. The parking problem here is as bad as that in Positano. The small lot in the center of town fills quickly; if you’re willing to pay the steep prices, make a lunch reservation at one of the hotel restaurants and have your car parked for you.

The Amalfi Coast has become famous throughout the world for the unique beauty of its landscapes. The twisting road squeezed between the rocks reveals tantalising glimpses of small villages, secluded bays, and inlets, all looking out over a clear blue sea in stark contrast to the lush green Mediterranean flora which colours the slopes of the hills and cliffs.

A journey which leads the traveller not only to towns of world wide fame such as the picturesque Positano, the one time Marine Republic of Amalfi, and the superbly elegant Ravello, but also to lesser known, yet exquisitely beautiful, places such as Nerano, La Marina di Furore, Conca dei Marini, and Praiano. Continuing further along the coastal route one comes upon a series of fascinating towns facing the Gulf of Salerno – Maiori, Minori, Vietri sul Mare, Salerno, and Paestum.

The fascinating costiera and Gulf of Salerno form part of a territory which unites various Mediterranean cultures and where the local traditions are steeped in an ancient past.

This is a land where nature and history embrace to create a magical atmosphere, where peace reigns supreme over the shimmering sea, and visitors are left quite simply spellbound.

Limoncello is the golden treasure of Amalfi. Locals affectionately call it sunshine wine, as if they had harvested all the joy and golden glory of the coastline, corked it, before serving it, chilled, like summer champagne.

A national drink of Italy, limoncello is served either before a meal to cleanse the palate, or as a light and refreshing after-dinner beverage. It is made from fermented lemons, which are steeped in a mixture of sugar and alcohol for at least 20 days.

Connoisseurs agree that the best limoncello comes from the Amalfi Coast. The region’s unique soil leads to the finest quality lemons, which are sweet and citrusy, with nary a trace of sourness. Some chefs even call the Amalfi lemons “bread”, because they can be cut into slices and then eaten as a dessert or a snack: tart, juicy, and as goldeny sweet as the sunshine spilling over the beaches outside.

The lemons of the Amalfi coast also have very few seeds, minimising the bitterness, while the pulp is so rich with flavour that you can smell the sweetness through its skin. Try driving by Amalfi’s terraced lemon groves during the summer, when the branches are heavy with their fruit.

The heady mix of their citrus perfumes, tinted by the scent of the turquoise sea, will linger in your memory for years!